Day 29: Abu Ghosh (Emmaus)

Today we travelled to a town outside of Jerusalem called Abu Ghosh. This is believed to be the ancient town of Emmaus (although a number of other towns claim this also!)

We visited the Benedictine Abbey and church which was beautiful. This Romanesque church was like stepping back into the Middle Ages. Very much like those churches you see in the medieval movies. Very simple and beautiful, unlike out churches today which seemed to be filled with clutter.

The Mass was in French, and was mostly sung. The singing by the nuns and monks was beautiful and very moving.

We returned to Ecce Homo for lunch and then went for a walk into the new city to Mamilla plaza to get have a look in a very good bookshop there for a pictorial book as a souvenir. A wander back through the souq to get a few final bits and pieces for Nook and the kids.

After dinner we had a great storm hit. Very close lightening accompanied by very loud thunder - and the first rain since March!!! The locals were very excited by this.

Day 28: Jericho

Today was an excursion to the oldest and lowest city on earth - Jericho.

On route we stopped at the Greek Orthodox monestrary perched on the side of a hill at Wadi Qelt.

In Jericho we took a cable car ride up the mountain to a Russian Orthodox monastery which gave amazing views of the region.

We then visited the supposed sycamore tree which Zacchaeus climbed. Lk 19:1-17.

Today was a sad day as we learnt that our beloved border collie Jack was killed on the southern outlet after escaping from our yard during a storm. Tough being so far from loved ones today.

Day 27: Way of the Cross

This morning was an early start with the Way of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa.

Station 1 started at Ecce Homo (where we are staying) as this is next to he Antonia Fortress where Jesus was condemned to death by Pilate. This Latin phrase is translated as 'Behold the Man'.

We continued up through the old city on the Via Dolorosa until we came to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This is the traditional site of the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ.

The church Is divided up into sections, each administered by a different Christian denomination.

The site of Golgotha (crucifixion) is upstairs. Ornately decorated over the centuries, you can see the rocks at he bottom on either side (protected by glass casing). Under the altar you can touch the site.

The Sepulchre (tomb) is located not far away, again ornately decorated. You can go in 3 at a time to kneel in the tomb.

The diagram shows the current day church over the original site.

John 19:41-42
Now there was a garden in the place where he was crucified, and in the garden there was a new tomb in which no one had ever been laid. And so, because it was the Jewish day of Preparation, and the tomb was nearby, they laid Jesus there.

In all an interesting place, which due to the volume of pilgrims is very busy and chaotic at times. But nonetheless, a place of great significance and importance.

Day 26: More lectures

Today we had lectures with Pino for 3 hours in the morning.

After lunch I went for a walk to tick a couple of things off the 'to do' list.

One of these was visit the grave of Oskar Schindler. Stones placed on top of the grave are a sign of gratitude from Jewish visitors, according to Jewish tradition, although Schindler himself was not Jewish. On his grave, the Hebrew inscription reads: "Righteous among the Nations", an honorific used by the State of Israel to describe non-Jews who risked their lives during the Holocaust to save Jews from extermination by the Nazis. The German inscription reads: "The Unforgettable Lifesaver of 1200 Persecuted Jews".

Day 25: 'Free' day

Today was a 'free' day, being the solemn Jewish Day of Atonement, the city and services close down (even the airport)!

I used this time to visit a few things to tick off the list. This included another walk up The Mount of Olives to visit the Church of Pater Noster - site of the Lord's Prayer and the place of Ascension (one of three anyway!) this included a walk through 'the burbs' which was an eye opener. I didn't feel unsafe, but was conscious of what was going in around me! One thing I found disturbing was the amount of rubbish in the streets. There doesn't appear to be rubbish bins, but rather communal skips that everyone throughs their rubbish in. I assume they only get emptied periodically as they are piled high and the stench can be unbearable!

I returned home for lunch and then went for a wander through the old city.

In the late afternoon we went to the Western Wall to witness the end of Yom Kippur. This was many Jewish people dressed in white and sounding their shofars (ram's horns).

Day 24: A visit to Synagogue.

This morning continued with more lectures with Pino. We continued our way through Matthew, now approximately two thirds of the way there. 6 more hours of lectures to finish it.

After lunch I went for a walk by myself out of the old city to the Garden Tomb. This is a little oasis which some believe to be the site of crucifixion and resurrection, as opposed to the official site at the Holy Sepulcher.

The rock face shows an image of a skull, which some believe to be Golgotha (place of the skull), and is on the road leading to the Damascus Gate, which is a site of public execution as a warning to the locals. The tomb is a 1st century tomb of a wealthy person (supposedly Joseph of Arimathea), in which Jesus was laid. Anyway, of it isn't the historical site, it certainly was a peaceful place to visit given the madness you encounter in all the other shrines.

We then walked out of the old city to the Hebrew Union College Synagogue for the Kol Nidre service. This was the start of the Jewish feast Yom Kippur (day of atonement). This is a very solemn day in the Jewish calendar, and would be the equivalent of Good Friday for Christians. A very interesting experience. This was a reformed synagogue which meant that men and women could sit together like any Church. Most other synagogues have separate sections for men and women. Women played a key part in the ceremony fulfilling such roles as carrying the Torah scrolls in, preaching and cantoring. Being an American training college, some of it was in English, but the majority in Hebrew. We had to wear a kippur, so I did my best Papal pose! An interesting and worthwhile experience!

Day 23: Brain drain!

Today was a intellectually challenging day! We started at 8:30am and really didn't stop until 9:00pm.

We recommenced 'Matthew' with Pino (the lecturer, not a red!) and continued to unpack more. It seems the more you dig, the harder it is to get out. There is so much there, that it is unbelievable.

After lunch we had a session with Dr Marcie Lenk, a scholar on many things Jewish & Christian.

We then travelled outside the old city to West Jerusalem to visit the Very Rev. Dr. David Neuhaus, S.J. (Vicar for Hebrew-Catholic Community). This started with Mass in Hebrew than David spoke to us for an hour or so on the work of the very small Hebrew-Catholic Community and of his own story. Part of this was his conversion from Judaism to Christianity and subsequent ordination as a Catholic priest. A remarkable man who also shared a balanced view of the situation here in Israel.

They day ended with a nice stroll home thought the busy and vibrant New City and the discovery of a fantastic gelato shop (pistachio & snickers...mmmm).

Day 22: Dome of the Rock

Today started earlier than planned. Daylight savings finished here this morning which meant clocks went back an hour (automatically), however I also manually set it back an hour, which meant I was an hour out all morning which stuffed up my plans!

Just to make life more difficult the Dome of the Rock decided not to change their clocks so we waited in line for 1hr 30mins (instead of 30mins!)

What an impressive peaceful place. The magnificent architecture and design of this place was truly spectacular. However, I had a feeling of "I shouldn't really be here". I'm not sure if this was being sensitive to the significance of this place to both Jews & Muslims, and the tension that exists in such close proximity.

After this we wandered to the Jewish quarter for coffee and headed home via the Ramparts Walk. This is a walk along the top of the ancient city walls, which gave another great outlook of the old city to the right and the new city to the left. I must admit I spent most of the time looking to the right down into people's yards and way of life rather than the picturesque views of Jerusalem!

We finished the afternoon with a 2 hour lecture on Church History, with a particular focus on the development of Christianity in this region and subsequent attempts at Ecumanism. An area I am particularly interested in.

Day 21: A glimpse of civilian life

Today we started off early (as usual!) to visit the old city of Hebron. This is the resting place of the Patriarchs (Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Joseph) and the Matriarchs (Sarah, Rebecca, Leah).

Driving into Hebron was like a ghost town in a war zone. The buildings were unkept, crumbling and in some places destroyed. There was hardly anyone around except for a few children playing in the street. Armed soldiers were positioned on every street corner which was a confronting.

When they saw our bus, they came running up with their trinkets and jewellrey to sell. The looks on their faces was full of sadness. Even if they were well trained to tug at our heart strings, their living conditions was very confronting.

We entered via a Mosque built in the early 1300s which meant shoes off and ladies had to wear lovely cloaks. The decorative decor and artistic inscriptions were amazing.

After this we had a wander through the souq, but being early and a place where tourists don't come, many stalls were closed. We didn't think twice about spending here as we knew it wa going to local people who need our support. I even bought a keffiyeh!

When leaving Hebron our bus was refused entry to part of town. After waiting 30 mins with three lots of armed vehicles arriving to intervene, we had to return home via a different way.

We stopped at a local glass blowing factory which was amazing. Seeing all the items being made before our eyes, made it easier to buy without haggling, as we knew it was supporting the local people.

Day 20: Breather

Today was a chance to catch up on a few things. Firstly a little sleep in until 7.45am then breakfast.

Richard, Leanne and I then wandered off to do the Ramparts Walk around the old city walls. However, on our walk we indeed up on Mt Zion and discovered the Church of Dormition, which was the site of Mary's death. We also discovered the Upper Room which is the traditional site of the Last Supper.

We stopped for a rest and some lunch before heading to do what we originally set out to do - the Ramparts Walk, only to find that the section we needed to do to get home is closed on Fridays due to the Muslim day of prayer. Oh well - we'll save that up for another day.

When we returned we had a 2 hour lecture on the Spirituality of Islam which was very interesting. To hear from an expert in the field and scholar rather than the media was great.

Day 19: So I leave my boats behind...

Today we left Galilee with heavy hearts. This was a beautiful place; lush, warm - almost tropical with peace and quiet. We sang the Galilee Song while departing which give the lyrics so much meaning.

We then went on to Sepphoris, the ancient capital of Galilee. This major town in the first century would likely have provided employment for the residents of nearby Nazareth.

After lunch we went on to Caesarea (Maritima) on the coast which is a place I'd always wanted to visit. This ancient port town has always intrigued me,with the majesty that it once was. With a fantastic amphitheater that has been restored and still in use today. Today the ruins are well preserved and one can see why Herod the Great chose this place for his seaside palace.

We then went for a much needed swim to cool down - my first in the Mediterranean! Then back to Jerusalem and a race for the washing machines!

In all - a wonderful few days away in Galilee.

Day 18: Wade in the Water

Today we started by traveling to one of the sources of the Jordan River where we renewed our Baptismal Promises with a Sprinkling Rite.

We then continued on to Caesarea Philippi for a reflection at the archeological site. This was followed by lunch at a local Lebanese Restaurant.

On the way home we stopped in the Golan Heights which is on the Israeli-Syrian border. Looking into Syria knowing that only 40km away in Damascus, people are suffering was a sobering experience. As I watched the black smoke on the horizon, I can only hope and pray that the people of this region will know peace soon.

When we returned to Pilgerhaus we celebrated Eucharist by the shores of Lake Galilee with Richard on the occasion of his 15th anniversary of ordinatikn to the Priesthood. The Gospel was John 21:15-19, which was most appropriate for the occasion: by the Sea of Galilee, "follow me" for Richard's anniversary and for the "take you where you want to go", Richard told his story of the past 2 years. A very moving experience.

Day 17: Blessed are the...

Today started with a visit to the ancient boat. A first century fishing boat found in the mud in the Sea of Galilee, when the water level went extremely low after years of drought. We watched a fascinating video on it's discovery and subsequent salvage.

We then boarded a boat for a ride out onto the Lake for some quiet reflection.

After this we travelled a short distance to the magnificent Mount of Beatitudes where we celebrated Eucharist and enjoyed a lunch in the conference centre.

A visit to Capernaum to the ancient synagogue, House of Peter, Church of the Loaves and Fishes.

A very long and hot day which ended with a much needed swim in the lake before dinner.

Day 16: Heading to greener pastures

Today we headed off on our 4 day trip to Galilee.

After a brief WC and coffee stop at 'Gangaroo' (Aussie wildlife park - Israeli style) we headed to Nazareth. We stopped here for a visit to the Basilica of the Annunciation.

We then went to visit the Sisters of Nazareth who have discovered first century houses and tombs under their convent. Quite fascinating to see them in their original condition, rather than the human intervention we've seen in most other places.

Then onto Cana for a visit to the supposed site of the wedding feast.
Who would have thought they would market 'Wedding Wine' in Cana!

We then arrived at our accommodation 'Pilgerhaus' on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. What a beautiful unspoilt and lush place. I see why a certain man wanted to spend his ministry years here! A quick swim (the water was 28 degrees!), freshen up, and dinner in very tropical conditions was the perfect end to a long day.

Drasko's article

Drasko's article on Cathnews.com

Day 15: Half way

Today marks halfway through our time here in Jerusalem - and our first day off!

After breakfast we celebrated Eucharist at 10am in the Ecce Homo Basillica with a group of 25 Tassie pilgrims from the Bellerive Parish who are passing through.

After Mass a couple of us wandered up to the Jewish quarter for real coffee and chocolate scrolls.

We then had an extended walk home due to a number of streets being closed. This along with a higher number of police present (with semi-automatics) had us a little bit worried that trouble might be brewing. A quick bite to eat at a local restaurant with the other Tassie pilgrims and we were pleased to be in the confines of Ecce Homo.

An afternoon siesta then the Bellerive group returned for a cuppa and chat then dinner.

In all a relaxed day with much needed down time.

Tomorrow is an early start for our 4 day trip to Galilee.

Day 14: Salt & Scrolls

Today was an early start and on the bus through the Judean desert to Ein Gedi nature reserve. A nice early morning walk to waterfall and swim in the waterholes. We then went to an ancient synagogue which was recently discovered dating from the 3rd Century.

We then got back on the bus and drive to the dead sea. This amazing place is the lowest land place on earth at -400m below sea level. It is also one of the hottest. We went for a float which was an amazing experience. The bouyacy is due to the water density being 35% salt. The ocean is around 3.5%. This picturesque lake is deceiving with it's clear warm water, but it is very toxic, and to consume any can be fatal. If you have any cuts or nicks on your body - you'll soon know about them in the Dead Sea!

After the Dead Sea we continued on to Qumran which is the location of the Dead Sea scrolls, found by a Bedouin shepherd boy in 1947. This is also the site of the ancient 1st century Essean community, of which John the Baptist may have been a part of, prior to his ministry in the Jordan River area.

After a long hot day, we returned for a brief siesta and dinner at the local Austian Hospice.