Day 29: Abu Ghosh (Emmaus)

Today we travelled to a town outside of Jerusalem called Abu Ghosh. This is believed to be the ancient town of Emmaus (although a number of other towns claim this also!)

We visited the Benedictine Abbey and church which was beautiful. This Romanesque church was like stepping back into the Middle Ages. Very much like those churches you see in the medieval movies. Very simple and beautiful, unlike out churches today which seemed to be filled with clutter.

The Mass was in French, and was mostly sung. The singing by the nuns and monks was beautiful and very moving.

We returned to Ecce Homo for lunch and then went for a walk into the new city to Mamilla plaza to get have a look in a very good bookshop there for a pictorial book as a souvenir. A wander back through the souq to get a few final bits and pieces for Nook and the kids.

After dinner we had a great storm hit. Very close lightening accompanied by very loud thunder - and the first rain since March!!! The locals were very excited by this.

Day 28: Jericho

Today was an excursion to the oldest and lowest city on earth - Jericho.

On route we stopped at the Greek Orthodox monestrary perched on the side of a hill at Wadi Qelt.

In Jericho we took a cable car ride up the mountain to a Russian Orthodox monastery which gave amazing views of the region.

We then visited the supposed sycamore tree which Zacchaeus climbed. Lk 19:1-17.

Today was a sad day as we learnt that our beloved border collie Jack was killed on the southern outlet after escaping from our yard during a storm. Tough being so far from loved ones today.

Day 27: Way of the Cross

This morning was an early start with the Way of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa.

Station 1 started at Ecce Homo (where we are staying) as this is next to he Antonia Fortress where Jesus was condemned to death by Pilate. This Latin phrase is translated as 'Behold the Man'.

We continued up through the old city on the Via Dolorosa until we came to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This is the traditional site of the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ.

The church Is divided up into sections, each administered by a different Christian denomination.

The site of Golgotha (crucifixion) is upstairs. Ornately decorated over the centuries, you can see the rocks at he bottom on either side (protected by glass casing). Under the altar you can touch the site.

The Sepulchre (tomb) is located not far away, again ornately decorated. You can go in 3 at a time to kneel in the tomb.

The diagram shows the current day church over the original site.

John 19:41-42
Now there was a garden in the place where he was crucified, and in the garden there was a new tomb in which no one had ever been laid. And so, because it was the Jewish day of Preparation, and the tomb was nearby, they laid Jesus there.

In all an interesting place, which due to the volume of pilgrims is very busy and chaotic at times. But nonetheless, a place of great significance and importance.

Day 26: More lectures

Today we had lectures with Pino for 3 hours in the morning.

After lunch I went for a walk to tick a couple of things off the 'to do' list.

One of these was visit the grave of Oskar Schindler. Stones placed on top of the grave are a sign of gratitude from Jewish visitors, according to Jewish tradition, although Schindler himself was not Jewish. On his grave, the Hebrew inscription reads: "Righteous among the Nations", an honorific used by the State of Israel to describe non-Jews who risked their lives during the Holocaust to save Jews from extermination by the Nazis. The German inscription reads: "The Unforgettable Lifesaver of 1200 Persecuted Jews".

Day 25: 'Free' day

Today was a 'free' day, being the solemn Jewish Day of Atonement, the city and services close down (even the airport)!

I used this time to visit a few things to tick off the list. This included another walk up The Mount of Olives to visit the Church of Pater Noster - site of the Lord's Prayer and the place of Ascension (one of three anyway!) this included a walk through 'the burbs' which was an eye opener. I didn't feel unsafe, but was conscious of what was going in around me! One thing I found disturbing was the amount of rubbish in the streets. There doesn't appear to be rubbish bins, but rather communal skips that everyone throughs their rubbish in. I assume they only get emptied periodically as they are piled high and the stench can be unbearable!

I returned home for lunch and then went for a wander through the old city.

In the late afternoon we went to the Western Wall to witness the end of Yom Kippur. This was many Jewish people dressed in white and sounding their shofars (ram's horns).

Day 24: A visit to Synagogue.

This morning continued with more lectures with Pino. We continued our way through Matthew, now approximately two thirds of the way there. 6 more hours of lectures to finish it.

After lunch I went for a walk by myself out of the old city to the Garden Tomb. This is a little oasis which some believe to be the site of crucifixion and resurrection, as opposed to the official site at the Holy Sepulcher.

The rock face shows an image of a skull, which some believe to be Golgotha (place of the skull), and is on the road leading to the Damascus Gate, which is a site of public execution as a warning to the locals. The tomb is a 1st century tomb of a wealthy person (supposedly Joseph of Arimathea), in which Jesus was laid. Anyway, of it isn't the historical site, it certainly was a peaceful place to visit given the madness you encounter in all the other shrines.

We then walked out of the old city to the Hebrew Union College Synagogue for the Kol Nidre service. This was the start of the Jewish feast Yom Kippur (day of atonement). This is a very solemn day in the Jewish calendar, and would be the equivalent of Good Friday for Christians. A very interesting experience. This was a reformed synagogue which meant that men and women could sit together like any Church. Most other synagogues have separate sections for men and women. Women played a key part in the ceremony fulfilling such roles as carrying the Torah scrolls in, preaching and cantoring. Being an American training college, some of it was in English, but the majority in Hebrew. We had to wear a kippur, so I did my best Papal pose! An interesting and worthwhile experience!

Day 23: Brain drain!

Today was a intellectually challenging day! We started at 8:30am and really didn't stop until 9:00pm.

We recommenced 'Matthew' with Pino (the lecturer, not a red!) and continued to unpack more. It seems the more you dig, the harder it is to get out. There is so much there, that it is unbelievable.

After lunch we had a session with Dr Marcie Lenk, a scholar on many things Jewish & Christian.

We then travelled outside the old city to West Jerusalem to visit the Very Rev. Dr. David Neuhaus, S.J. (Vicar for Hebrew-Catholic Community). This started with Mass in Hebrew than David spoke to us for an hour or so on the work of the very small Hebrew-Catholic Community and of his own story. Part of this was his conversion from Judaism to Christianity and subsequent ordination as a Catholic priest. A remarkable man who also shared a balanced view of the situation here in Israel.

They day ended with a nice stroll home thought the busy and vibrant New City and the discovery of a fantastic gelato shop (pistachio & snickers...mmmm).